How to Sew Plush Back Elastic

Band elastic is plush on one side only, and has a picot. Band elastic is used on the bottom edge of the bra and on the top and underarm edge of the bra.

Place the elastic plush side up, on the right side of the bra. The plain edge should be even with the cut edge of the bra, the picot edge should be facing towards the center of the bra. The elastic is stitched on with a plain zig zag stitch, medium in length and width.

On my machine, I use the default stitch which is 2.0 long, 3.0 wide. Stitch close to the picot edge, but not over it. If you stitch too far away, the wrong side of the elastic will show, too close and the elastic will not turn nicely.

You are now ready to turn the elastic to the inside of the bra and apply the second row of stitching. This row of stitching is applied to the straight edge ( non picot ) of the elastic. This edge can be stitched with the same stitch you used previously.

You can also use a 3 step zig zag stitch on this edge. I have seen both used in ready –to - wear bras. The 3 step zig zag is difficult to pick out, so my recommendation is to use it once you are confident with your pattern and your stitching! The stitch length and width I use with the 3 step zig zag is.1.0 long, 4.5 wide

If your stitch length is too close, the elastic will ripple. If it is too loose, it will pop the stitch when you stretch it. Try samples before you apply the elastic to your bra. Write the best stitch length and width on a note, and post it on your machine, or bra notes. This will save you time on your next bra!